Les Parfums's profileLes Parfums d'IsabellePhotosBlogListsMore Tools Help

Blog


    June 24

    ECOLOGICAL BOTOX...

     

    ViperI want to share my most latest finding which is about to revolutionise anti-ageing practices: an ecological face cream acting like Botox! Being a usually rather skeptical person when one talks about miracle cosmetics, I thought that I should try this one on my fine lines to see whether the results would match the claims of 50% wrinkles reduction and 80% smoother skin texture.

    I AM HAPPY TO ANNOUNCE THAT IT WORKS!! Once again, Nature proves that all we need is readily available.

    The cream is based on a recent discovery which won the Swiss technology awards in 2006: Syn-Ake®. SYN-AKE® is a new anti-wrinkle active compound based on a synthetic tripeptide that mimics the effect of waglerin 1, a peptide that is found in the venom of the Temple Viper, Tropidolaemus wagleri.

    A tripeptide contains 3 amino acids and a pentapeptide contains 5 amino acids. Generally, the more amino acids in the chain the more reactive the peptide is (Botox is a peptide with around 25 amino acids in the chain). However, the converse to this is that the smaller the molecule the quicker it is absorbed through the skin, and therefore it reaches the targeted site in the depths of the skin, and the quicker it starts working.

    Research at Pentapharm in Brazil, has shown that Syn-Ake® is the optimum size peptide, and amino acid combination, to reduce the formation of wrinkles.

    SYN-AKE® is an excellent anti-wrinkle active compound with a snake venom-like mode of activity. Celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow have adopted it as their daily cream... and with fabulous results only after 2 weeks of using it morning and evening (wrinkles are smoothed and the skin feels moisturised and balanced), there is no doubt we will hear more about this cream soon...

    You can read an article written in the Daily Mail in February 2008, boasting the merits of this cream and showing that Harvey street cosmetic surgeons are not really happy about this discovery.

    NOTE: No snake is harmed to create this cream. Only the venom is extracted (in the same way as for a vaccine) and transformed in the cosmetic laboratory.

    Les Parfums d'Isabelle is an authorised reseller for Syn-Ake face cream. Why pay £50 in high street stores. Our unique price is: £38.99 only. For more information or to order, contact Isabelle by using the 'Send a message' option on this blog.

    November 09

    Sandalwood

    Ecological sandalwood

    The organic and Fair Trade movements are wearing off... At least to the European public who is getting more and more confused with the so-many associations promoting organic and Fair trade products.and who do not seem to see where the 20% overprice on organic products is going.. While those associations - mostly European ones - are gradually removing vital essential oils from their list on the grounds of either endangered species or sensitising effects, one should also consider the possible endangering of the 'mankind' - The question is: 'would you say it is FAIR to affect the revenues of some of the poorest countries in the world'? Despite the philosophy and ethics behind most of those associations, one has to question their real intention when it seems that they are only interested in jumping on the current political and green bandwagon. I believe that it is time that we start doubting what is said to us and start making a move - ourselves - to really help those who need our changes of habits the most.

    Let's leave place to ECOLOGICALLY and BIOLOGICALLY grown products and let's allow those countries which do grow crops without any chemical fertiliser or else but who cannot afford going through the bureaucratic process imposed by political institutions to be recognised as Organic or Fair Trade, to become part of the worldwide 'green' movement...
     
    Amyris sandalwood from Haiti

    Amyris sandalwood from Haiti (the poorest country in the world) is the one I know from my childhood on tropical islands. It does not smell as strong and as 'religious' than the Indian one but has a subtle slightly smoked scent and is coming out greatly in fragrances for any purposes. 
    It is interesting to know that the recommended sandalwood species to fight against the endangering of the existing Mysore sandalwood from India are those from Haiti , Vanuatu and New Caledonia although the Vanuatu quality depends on whether it is extracted from plantations in the North or South of the island. According to the research, in New Caledonia, the sandalwood is grown ecologically i.e. for 1 tree cut, 3 are replanted. In Haiti, the production of sandalwood is a major source of revenue for this poorest country in the world and therefore buying theirs is encouraged. It keeps most of the young people on the island in employment. Their earnings are a mere $3 per day but a few 1000 people are able to survive thanks to the Amyris.
     
    All this to say that since the Soil Association, Ecocert and other associations of the kind, seem to actually be working against small producers in poor countries, I am more and more taking the view that those associations are actually endangering the revenues and living conditions of producers from poor countries by being so drastic (i.e. wanting to ban sandalwood all together) and through their behaviour, have the countereffect of what they are supposed to promote.
     
    According to a UNCTAD (United Nations Conference on Trade and Development) report on Amyris, the existing trees can produce essential oils for the next 10 years and the plan is to start reforesting soon. Amyris is only produced in Haiti and is grown biologically and organically. UNCTAD confirms that the distillation process is extremely long (120 hours) and no chemical is added in the production process. Also UNCTAD is trying to make sure that the production of Amyris, vetiver and mango from Haiti are recognised as biological products. 
     
    On the other hand, Indian and Australian sandalwood, due to the production processes are indeed endangering a whole forestry ecosystem since the worldwide demand has reached incredible levels and this is why if we, European and industrialised countries consumers want to show our ecological and organic interest, we would be well informed to actually start using sandalwood from Haiti and New Caledonia.
     
    In 2002, an organic agency has been set up in Haiti in collaboration and sponsored by the UNCTAD and they are trying to ensure that they become recognised in Western countries. Have we ever heard of it? No. Makes me wonder what organic SA and Ecocert are actually promoting. It seems we have not evolved since the 70's when the American attitude of promoting sunflower oil rather than coconut oil led to the end of the production of coprah (and coconut oil) in many countries such as the Seychelles islands and Vanuatu. At the time, it was announced that the sunflower oil was better for health (when in fact it was all about promoting US sunflower production). Since then, numerous scientific reports have proved that coconut oil was one of the best oils for health as it contains all we need such as the lipids, proteins and glucids.

     
    I am using Haiti amyris sandalwood in my perfumes and the results are really worth. As time goes, I am becoming more aware that we can strike a balance between endangering natural species and ensuring that we allow some populations in developing countries to earn a living. This is why I have decided to forget Organic, forget Fair Trade and proceed with MY own Fair Trade support by trying as much as possible to deal directly with producers in the countries which need our help and to benefit from our change of habits.
     
    If you are interested in supporting the producers of Amyris sandalwood in Haiti, Caribbean Flavors & Fragrances SA are the exclusive producers and marketers.  They also produce vetiver, lime and petitgrain.
     
     haiti market
    Market scene in Port-au-Prince
    Photo courtesy of Adam Jones

    April 09

    MONOI OF TAHITI: a Polynesian scented experience

     

    EVERYTHING YOU HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT
    GARDENIA TAHITENSIS and MONOI OF TAHITI

      Excerpt from Air Tahiti magazine no. 25 

    The modest tiare flower is a way of life in Tahiti : used for decoration, as necklaces, the tiare flower (known in its latin name as Gardenia tahitensis) participates to the welcome tradition and the joy of Polynesian lifestyle.

    Papeete, Tahiti, 6 a.m.

    Rather tired tourists get off the plane and experience immediately the suffocating heat coming from the ground. A bit lost in the airport hall and looking for their way to a taxi rank or a sign for their hotel, they suddenly are welcomed by the smile of a ‘vahine’ and a necklace of tiare flowers ! The holiday in Tahiti is set. Nobody can forget the scent of a tiare flower…

    Even if the gesture looks overdone and a bit folkloric for those cynical ones used to tourism, it is however deeply rooted in the Tahitian tradition. Captain Cook, at the end of the 18th century had already noted this custom in his diary. The gardenia tahitensis is not only an invitation to share the beauty of life but also the art of life itself.

    DIFFERENT MEANINGS OF THE TIARE FLOWER

    Tiare flower is seen everywhere in Polynesia. It is worn for any occasion, either on the ear or as a flower crown around the neck, both by women and men. It is easy to meet a robust Tahitian guy driving his truck, with a tiare flower on his ear and of course, it is impossible to miss the women and their beautiful long black hair, who not only match the flower to their clothes but are perfumed of the Gardenia tahitensis scent. The flower can be found everywhere and grows all year long so Tahitians never run out of it.

    Although used on a daily basis as a decoration flower, the tiare flower is also the plant for festivity, symbolising welcome and friendship. No ceremony will take place without ornaments of tiare flowers, whether on tables, around the neck, on the head.

    There is a language for tiare flower : if the flower is placed on the right ear, it means that your heart is available. If the petals are oriented towards the back, it means that you are inviting the wooer to follow you.

    THE POLYNESIAN APOTHECARY

    The tiare flowers are mixed with freshly cut hibiscus and sugar cane leaves of which a traditional perfumed decoction called ‘ra’au ira’ is prepared. This in turn is used to bathe toddlers so that they are protected from cold and small wounds. According to the Tahitian apothecaries, tiare flowers cancels any toxicity of plants and this is why they are always seen floating even in the most mysterious philtres.

    MONOI OF TAHITI

    The Monoi of Tahiti which is the result of enfleurage of tiare flowers in refined coprah oil, extracted from the coconut tree ‘coco nuciferas’, remains above all a base product for traditional pharmacy. It is renowned for its curative virtues in the dermatological and muscular fields but is also used against sinusitis through massages.

    Its numerous properties have given way to a special Institute of Monoi. In 1992, the appellation ‘Monoi of Tahiti’ was set up and only when the minimum required percentage of Monoi appears in a product can one pretend to promote Monoi.

    In Polynesian language,  Monoi means ‘sacred oil’. Its inspiring perfume allows it to be used in many dermatological and cosmetic products ranging from hair oil to body oil and bath oil. It is also found in soaps and baby’s skincare products. Monoi helps the skin to prepare for the sun and is an excellent base for a natural tanning look.

    Monoi of Tahiti is an oil to discover or rediscover and will uplift mind and body, giving you the experience of Tahitian spa…

    March 08

    BEBE CADUM is back

    In the search of long lost scents being rediscovered, I choose a popular soap in France in the 20th century. Do you know BEBE CADUM?

    It might be a paradox to talk about 'French' soaps in the UK, since the French people seem to have the reputation of not taking care of their own selves as much as the British!

    For over a century, the French cleaned with the one and only soap they knew would desinfect, soften the skin and last long: BEBE CADUM... The story of this soap begun in 1907 when an American businessman visiting Paris stopped in an apothecary shop to try to relieve him from the eczema he was suffering from. The apothecary, Louis Nathan, offered him to try a handmade balm. The American businessman was so impressed by the effects, that he offered Mr Nathan to market the 3 products existing then including BEBE CADUM SOAP, a pomade to treat eczema and itches and a toothpaste. By 1930, BEBE CADUM had added a few more products and held 50% of the marketshare for soaps in France, also exporting to countries such as Spain and Latin America. Colgate-Palmolive bought the Bébé Cadum company in the 50's and got rid of the baby's face to replace it by pictures more adapted to the general public, mostly women.

     
    The major compound of the soap was the essential oil of CADE, also known as 'Juniper of Provence', famous for its powerful antifongal properties and for treating acne, psoriasis and eczema. Enriched with lanolin and sweet almond oil, the soap had a very special and unique scent to which most the French people can relate to. At the time, soap in France was considered a luxury product (which might explain why the consumption was less than in the UK) but thanks to the American marketing approach, BEBE CADUM became an icon and we can even say that the Cadum company is at the origin of commercial advertising on posters and billboards.
     
    BEBE CADUM was as popular because of the stories and legends surrounding the name of the smiling baby as for its cleansing properties. There are many collectors of BEBE CADUM's posters and memorabilia and getting hold of a vintage Bébé Cadum soap is among their activities...
     
    Today, it is not unusual to hear French people still saying 'we are all Bébé Cadum!' BEBE CADUM is definitely one to rediscover and the good news is that it is back!! BEBE CADUM takes me back to childhood when I used to wake up in the morning, still smelling of the Bébé Cadum scent from the night bath. 
     
    I cannot wait to get hold of one of these childhood memory soaps next time I visit France...
    March 02

    WHITE LILY AND INCA INCHI, CARRIER OILS TO DISCOVER

    FOLLOW THE LATEST PRAISED CARRIER OILS IN YOUR COSMETICS...
     
    I thought it would be nice to use other carrier oils for my oil perfumes instead of jojoba and I recently ordered 2 carrier oils which are about to become popular for many reasons. I'd like to share my journey with these oils here.
     
    1. WHITE LILY CARRIER OIL
    This beautifully clear oil is extracted from the lily flower and is reknown for its properties on sensitive skin as well as fighting against the apparition of age spots. I have mixed it up with one of my base perfumes and am most impressed by its clarity and texture. It is an ideal oil for perfumes in roller bottles.
     
    2. INCA INCHI OIL
    This oil originates from Peru and has a nutty smell. It is a dry oil and it contains a high level of OMEGA 3 and vitamin E, making it an excellent carrier oil for restructuring and protecting the skin upper layers. Mixed in a perfume base, its nutty background adds to the scent of perfumes where woody notes are present.
     
    Since I  am in the trial period, I will keep you posted on the shelf life of both these oils but I would advise to use them in cosmetics preparations.