Business desk article 22 October 2009 

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In the last few years, I have had the opportunity to discover Ayurveda as a natural way for wellness and I am so glad that it is finally taking its place in our Western society. For Ayurvedic medicine tackles health as a whole including hygiene of life, body and mind. Despite its numerous and recognised benefits, access to real ayurvedic medicine in Europe is still  limited and even in India from where it originates, only a handful of ayurvedic centres can pretend practising real Ayurveda. In Europe, it is mostly known through some of its aspects such as massages, yoga, dietics….

AYUR-VEDA = LONG LIFE AND KNOWLEDGE

In recent years, we have witnessed a renewed interest for this 5000 years old traditional medicine and it is anticipated that it will be increasingly incorporated in medical spas.

AYURVEDA aims at defining the PRAKRUTI of each individual, i.e. their own physical constitution and the principle ruling their metabolism. Ayurvedic medicine is supposed to acknowledge the physical particulars, the illnesses and the most common imbalances which can affect patients. It is in fact a science of ‘moods’ and the principle is that each individual is caracterised by a mixture of 3 different moods which represent the basis of DOSHAS, the vital energies regulating the body.

These 3 moods are respectively called VATA (wind), PITTA (bile) and KAPHA (phlegm).

In a nutshell, people whose mood is ruled by VATA tend to be slim, imaginative and impulsive and might suffer insomnia and anxiety; those ruled by PITTA are usually enduring but can be prone to anger and passionate reactions while those under KAPHA element are robust, with tendency to weight gain and tend to be slow and are prone to have obesity and cholesterol problems.

Of course, these ruling types are in variable proportions according to the person and ‘pure’ types virtually do not exist. It would take too long to describe this fine medicine through which numerous criteria are defined by examining various parts of the body: the tongue, the eyes and above all the wrist from which the pulses will give information about the vitality of the patient and his possible illnesses. Urine constitutes a major part of the diagnostic.

Ayurveda is truly a holistic medicine in the sense that it considers the whole individual.

TREATMENTS BASED ON FOOD AND NUTRITION

Once the diagnostic has been established, ayurvedic medicine promotes dietary meals adapted to the function of the weakest organs of each type. The treatment of the illness consists of 4 main steps:

 1. SHODAN: it is a cleansing of the body which allows the toxins to be released. First, a massage is performed with special oils and herbs, followed by PANCHA KARMA which consists of therapeutic enemas, nasal showers and vomiting, all considered as liberating.  Food such as clarified butter or a special type of yogurt widely used in Indian cooking are then prescribed to restore the digestive flora.

2. SHAMAN: this step allows to reconcile doshas through the incorporation of the spiritual aspect to the treatment. Fasting, chanting, yoga, meditation and breathing exercises are part of this ‘enlightening’ method. Here herbs and spices intake is also included so that Shaman works both on the emotional level and immune system of the ill individual or if the person is healthy, on the improvement of the general state.

3. RASAYANA, the third step is a tonifying process, able to increase capacities and performances of the body. This is a very important step to promote fertility and improve sexual performances. Rasayana is also supposed to have antioxydant properties to extend longevity. Here physical and breathing exercises are combined with herbal preparations based on minerals and composed according to the person mood type.  

4. SATVAJAYA is the final step and it aims at reducing stress and increasing psychological balance in order to attain a higher spiritual state and better mental performance. This is the step where one learns mantras, known as SOUND THERAPY, yantras to improve concentration and tantras to direct the energy through the body and free consciousness.

Like Chinese medicine, ayurvedic medicine is complex and scientific. Unfortunately, charlatans have populated spas and centers in Europe, meaning that patients do not get the benefits of such a wonderful and natural medicine which desperately needs to be integrated in our European lifestyles.

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Talking about PERFUME WORKSHOP

Hosted by: Isabelle Date and time: 18 April 2009 at 09:45 Location: Imperial College View this event on Windows Live

I want to share my most latest finding which is about to revolutionise anti-ageing practices: an ecological face cream acting like Botox! Being a usually rather skeptical person when one talks about miracle cosmetics, I thought that I should try this one on my fine lines to see whether the results would match the claims of 50% wrinkles reduction and 80% smoother skin texture.

I AM HAPPY TO ANNOUNCE THAT IT WORKS!! Once again, Nature proves that all we need is readily available.

The cream is based on a recent discovery which won the Swiss technology awards in 2006: Syn-Ake®. SYN-AKE® is a new anti-wrinkle active compound based on a synthetic tripeptide that mimics the effect of waglerin 1, a peptide that is found in the venom of the Temple Viper, Tropidolaemus wagleri.

Research at Pentapharm in Brazil, has shown that Syn-Ake® is the optimum size peptide, and amino acid combination, to reduce the formation of wrinkles.

SYN-AKE® is an excellent anti-wrinkle active compound with a snake venom-like mode of activity. Celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow have adopted it as their daily cream... and with fabulous results only after 2 weeks of using it morning and evening (wrinkles are smoothed and the skin feels moisturised and balanced), there is no doubt we will hear more about this cream soon...

You can read an article written in the Daily Mail in February 2008, boasting the merits of this cream and showing that Harvey street cosmetic surgeons are not really happy about this discovery.

NOTE: No snake is harmed to create this cream. Only the venom is extracted (in the same way as for a vaccine) and transformed in the cosmetic laboratory.

Les Parfums d'Isabelle is an authorised reseller for Syn-Ake face cream. Why pay £50 in high street stores. Our unique price is: £38.99 only. For more information or to order, contact Isabelle by using the 'Send a message' option on this blog.

The 'sweet violet' (violeta odorata) is like Marmite: we love it or we hate it! But did you know it was the flower for Valentine's celebration before rose took its place...

The fact is that it is making its way back into botanical perfumery!

If you have ever visited the city of Toulouse, more commonly known as the ’’Pink rose city’’ in the South West of France, you have probably experienced a close encounter with the sweet violet or ‘’Violette de Toulouse (TM)’’, a flower unique to the Gascony region used in a variety of applications, including candies, chocolates, pastries, cocktails and of course in the ’’Liqueur de Violette’’,(see recipe below), a sweet-violet flavoured liquor which is difficult to find even in France.

The Sweet Violet has become so internationally popular that the city of Toulouse hosts a yearly Festival of Violet in February and the Violet Society defends the virtues of this multi-facet flower.

Sweet violet’s essential oil (extracted from the leaves) is used in aromatherapy as a remedy to treat headaches as it contains salicylic acid found in aspirin. It is also excellent for bronchial coughs and colds so if you get hit by the winter cold, why not try violet tea...

In the UK, Sweet violet still tends to be associated with old ladies but did you know that the Violet flower has been used to many different purposes since the Ancient Times and that in Greek and Hindu mythology, the flower is a symbol of virility and fertility? Sweet Violet was also the flower used to celebrate Valentine's day before the rose!

I just love the smell of violet! It is fresh, uplifting, discreet and feminine and above all, original and unique. Its sweet smell makes you feel like eating it: it is an addictive fragrance well worth bringing back into your life...

Violet Eau de toilette, handcrafted in Southern France, is now available at Les Parfums d'Isabelle website.

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Recipe for traditional liquor of violet

For 20 people, you need:

• 1 glass of water • 375 g of sugar • 180 g of sweet violets* (make sure they are not treated with any pesticide and rinsed well) • 3/4 liter of eau-de-vie at 40° (vodka is ideal) • Bottles (preparation is directly into the bottles) • 1 pod of fresh vanilla

Prepare a syrup by mixing the sugar and vanilla grains in water and leave to cool. Separate stem and stamen off the flower, keeping only the petals. Infuse them in the eau-de-vie for 5 mins.

Filter and mix the obtained perfumed liquid with the syrup. Put in bottles and close. Serve in a brandy glass. Drink moderately!! And enjoy!!

*Usually found from your local or specialised garden center

Ecological sandalwood

The organic and Fair Trade movements are wearing off... At least to the European public who is getting more and more confused with the so-many associations promoting organic and Fair trade products.and who do not seem to see where the 20% overprice on organic products is going.. While those associations - mostly European ones - are gradually removing vital essential oils from their list on the grounds of either endangered species or sensitising effects, one should also consider the possible endangering of the 'mankind' - The question is: 'would you say it is FAIR to affect the revenues of some of the poorest countries in the world'? Despite the philosophy and ethics behind most of those associations, one has to question their real intention when it seems that they are only interested in jumping on the current political and green bandwagon. I believe that it is time that we start doubting what is said to us and start making a move - ourselves - to really help those who need our changes of habits the most.

Amyris sandalwood from Haiti (the poorest country in the world) is the one I know from my childhood on tropical islands. It does not smell as strong and as 'religious' than the Indian one but has a subtle slightly smoked scent and is coming out greatly in fragrances for any purposes. 
It is interesting to know that the recommended sandalwood species to fight against the endangering of the existing Mysore sandalwood from India are those from Haiti , Vanuatu and New Caledonia although the Vanuatu quality depends on whether it is extracted from plantations in the North or South of the island. According to the research, in New Caledonia, the sandalwood is grown ecologically i.e. for 1 tree cut, 3 are replanted. In Haiti, the production of sandalwood is a major source of revenue for this poorest country in the world and therefore buying theirs is encouraged. It keeps most of the young people on the island in employment. Their earnings are a mere $3 per day but a few 1000 people are able to survive thanks to the Amyris.
 
All this to say that since the Soil Association, Ecocert and other associations of the kind, seem to actually be working against small producers in poor countries, I am more and more taking the view that those associations are actually endangering the revenues and living conditions of producers from poor countries by being so drastic (i.e. wanting to ban sandalwood all together) and through their behaviour, have the countereffect of what they are supposed to promote.
 
According to a UNCTAD (United Nations Conference on Trade and Development) report on Amyris, the existing trees can produce essential oils for the next 10 years and the plan is to start reforesting soon. Amyris is only produced in Haiti and is grown biologically and organically. UNCTAD confirms that the distillation process is extremely long (120 hours) and no chemical is added in the production process. Also UNCTAD is trying to make sure that the production of Amyris, vetiver and mango from Haiti are recognised as biological products. 
 
On the other hand, Indian and Australian sandalwood, due to the production processes are indeed endangering a whole forestry ecosystem since the worldwide demand has reached incredible levels and this is why if we, European and industrialised countries consumers want to show our ecological and organic interest, we would be well informed to actually start using sandalwood from Haiti and New Caledonia.
 
In 2002, an organic agency has been set up in Haiti in collaboration and sponsored by the UNCTAD and they are trying to ensure that they become recognised in Western countries. Have we ever heard of it? No. Makes me wonder what organic SA and Ecocert are actually promoting. It seems we have not evolved since the 70's when the American attitude of promoting sunflower oil rather than coconut oil led to the end of the production of coprah (and coconut oil) in many countries such as the Seychelles islands and Vanuatu. At the time, it was announced that the sunflower oil was better for health (when in fact it was all about promoting US sunflower production). Since then, numerous scientific reports have proved that coconut oil was one of the best oils for health as it contains all we need such as the lipids, proteins and glucids.

 

Did you visit the online shop of LES PARFUMS D'ISABELLE?

In the search of long lost scents being rediscovered, I choose a popular soap in France in the 20th century. Do you know BEBE CADUM?

It might be a paradox to talk about 'French' soaps in the UK, since the French people seem to have the reputation of not taking care of their own selves as much as the British!

For over a century, the French cleaned with the one and only soap they knew would desinfect, soften the skin and last long: BEBE CADUM... The story of this soap begun in 1907 when an American businessman visiting Paris stopped in an apothecary shop to try to relieve him from the eczema he was suffering from. The apothecary, Louis Nathan, offered him to try a handmade balm. The American businessman was so impressed by the effects, that he offered Mr Nathan to market the 3 products existing then including BEBE CADUM SOAP, a pomade to treat eczema and itches and a toothpaste. By 1930, BEBE CADUM had added a few more products and held 50% of the marketshare for soaps in France, also exporting to countries such as Spain and Latin America. Colgate-Palmolive bought the Bébé Cadum company in the 50's and got rid of the baby's face to replace it by pictures more adapted to the general public, mostly women.

It is not 'in vino veritas' but in 'perfume veritas' at the Dragon's Den. Against all odds, David Pybus, a chemist perfumer (not a natural one alas) - known as the Indiana Jones of perfumes - has secured an £80K investment to develop a range of perfume and eaux de toilette which includes the recreation of the last Titanic perfume, created by a German businessman who had taken samples with him to America and although surviving the drama, decided never to make perfumes again... Are you touched?? To view the broadcasted program about this adventure, go to: 

I was recently telling a contact of mine who has invented a unique essential oil extraction process that people spend too much time trying to invent or copycat what has been invented rather than REINVENTING what has been lost.

While nearly all the industrialised countries are discussing the issues of global warming and new alternative fuels, there is one fruit we all like to smell and to use that seems to be the topic of a wider plan for ''clean energy'': the coconut.